Pioneer Bidders
The Spicy Route of Kochi
There are two stories about Gujaratis’ tryst with Kerala. One has it that they first came here in the early 12th century as refugees after their land was ruthlessly ravaged by the marauding army of Mahmud Ghazni. The second relates to a much later period when they came as honored guest at the request of the then Diwan of the erstwhile Travancore, Raja Kesavadas, to motivate the locals to entrepreneurship. Even if apocryphal, the two stories, nonetheless, suggest a symbolic, yet historical, link between the people up north and down south that evidently transcended time.
On record, however, the Gujaratis made their presence in and around Mattancherry only in early 19th century. They followed the scent of spices, a la the Romans, the Greeks, and the Arabs from across the ocean. But unlike them, the Gujaratis made their home here even as they retained their colorful customs and culture.
By the time they arrived, Mattancherry had become a major trading centre for a variety of commodities, with spices leading the list. With business in their blood, they sought fortune in almost everything. Naturally, they gravitated towards West Cochin where sale were negotiated and deals struck.
Not all were that business-minded. Devji Bhimji, for example, is hailed as a pioneer in journalism in Kerala and was a committed social activist. He was credited with setting up what came to be known as ‘Gujarati colonies’, particularly in Mattancherry, which, in retrospect, seemed to have helped the immigrants preserve their exclusivity and identity. Much of that has vanished with time; what remain is very much reminiscent of yesteryear.
Neither time nor space seems to have changed their mores. Along and near the archetypal’ Gujarati street’ with temples and vegetable and grocery shops, one can still spot typical Gujarati gentlemen clad in traditional ‘dhotis’ and ‘jubba’ endlessly jabbering and gesticulating about the days’ deals. But not the black, brown or grey ‘gandhi caps’ embroidered at the rim that once completed their typical attire.
The women have stuck to tradition in almost all their conduct, particularly in their sartorial habits with the famous ‘Gujarati sari’ worn in a manner distinctly different from the run- of – the- mill style made popular by their counterparts elsewhere in the country. While their men pursued manna with some passion, the women were largely content with home-keeping.
The typical ‘Gujarati home, seldom seen now, had a wooden gate with a rounded arch mounted on top. Usually two-storied, they invariably housed one or more families. A large courtyard was very much part of the setup. Barring the ostentatious ones, their houses seem to retain a native, old- world charm that seamlessly merged with lifestyle of the inmates.
In the past, the merchants had their office and residence in the same building. Some business establishments along the water front had private jetties where goods were loaded from “vanjis” (country craft) that piled along the numerous waterways to the hinterlands. Most of them, if not all, have disappeared.
The dwellings, barring a few, have vanished. Gone too, are the days when the ‘setji’ clinched deals seated on a massive mattress laid out on the floor even as he alternated between innumerable cups of tea and generous helpings of ‘pan’ (betal-lime- nut combination). Even the way business used to be conducted has changed. Overnight, the Gujarati businessmen seem to have turned hi-tech.
Not all old practice have died, The system of auctioning the right to conduct special ceremonies during festive seasons, for example. The highest bidder is given the privilege to perform the ceremonies, both religious and social, which indeed is contrary to the typical hierarchical privilege traditionally enjoyed by some in Indian society and is hence radical. That apart, the perceived transparency of the process evidently ensures a penchant for fair play so typical of a community that had set great store by competition.
Not all Gujaratis presently living in Mattancherry can claim lineage to early settlers, though a quality generally pervades lifestyles.
In fact they do talk of “our way” and ”malbari ways”, while a blend of indigenous Gujarati traditions and local elements colour the fabric of daily life which often marked by specific routines and even seasonal activities. There is, for instance, the ‘pickle making season’ (January- February)when every Gujarati household will be busy making pickles- this is often a group activity of a special kind of seasonal mangoes that will last till the next season.
They consume enormous quantities of sweet dishes most of them prepared in ghee. In fact, their day starts with generous helpings of sweets. Many of the items that go into their cuisine have to be brought from their native Gujarat as they are not locally produced. Over the years, the supply chains have been so perfected that nothing is in short supply at any given time of the year.
What still typifies the true Gujarati culture in all its glorious splendor is the ‘garba dance’,which trace its origin to Lord Krishna’s great grand daughter-in-law, and the ‘dandiya ras’, in which boys and girls swirl with clashing ‘dandiya stick’ to the rhythm of the accompanying ‘dhol’, flute or song, often into the wee hours of the morning in gay abandon. Usually organized during the nine days of the Navaratri festival (October), they are truly synonymous with the Gujarati culture.
If the fortunes of the Gujaratis have not yet ebbed with those of Mattancherry, it is as much due to their intrinsic capacity to adapt to any situation as it is to their fiercely intense business acumen. To a Gujarati, every challenge is an opportunity which is why they, unlike the fortune-seekers from the west, not only made their presence in Mattancherry but also became past of its grand matrix.
About the Author
Jacob Antony is an eminent analyst and writer in Kerala Travel & Kerala Tourism related topics. He has authored many websites on tour guide for Kerala Tourism and Kerala Tour. Find his more Articles at http://www.keralaholidays247.com
